Benedict’s restaurant in Louisville
is the setting for much of
Chapter IV, “Mary Ware’s Promised Land,” in “The
Little Colonel Maid of Honor,”published in 1906:
“As he led the way
out to the street and hailed a passing car, he explained why Lloyd had not
come in to meet them, adding, "Your train was two hours late, so I
telephoned out to Mrs. Sherman that we would have lunch in town. I'll
take you around to Benedict's."
Mary had never eaten
in a restaurant before, so it was with an inward dread that she might
betray the fact that she followed Joyce and Rob to a side-table spread for
three. In her anxiety to do the right thing she watched her sister like a
hawk, copying every motion, till they here safely launched on the first
course of their lunch. Then she relaxed her watchfulness long enough to
take a full breath and look at some of the people to whom Rob had bowed as
they entered.
She wanted to ask the
name of the lady in black at the opposite table. The little girl with her
attracted her interest so that she could hardly eat. She was about her own
age and she had such lovely long curls and such big dark eyes. To Mary,
whose besetting sin was a love of pretty clothes, the picture hat the
other girl wore was irresistible. She could
not keep her admiring glances away from it, and she
wished with all her heart she had one like, it. Presently Joyce noticed it
too, and asked the very question Mary had been longing to ask.
"That is Mrs. Walton,
the General's wife, you know," answered Rob. "and her youngest daughter,
Elise. You'll probably see all three of the girls while you're at The
Locusts, for they're living in the Valley now and are great friends of
Lloyd and Betty."
"Oh, I know all about
them," answered Joyce, "for Allison and Kitty go to Warwick Hall, and
Lloyd and Betty fill their letters with their sayings and doings."
Mary stole another glance at the lady in black. So this was an aunt of the
two little knights of Kentucky, and the mother of the " Little Captain
whose name had been in all the papers as the youngest commissioned officer
in the entire army. She would have something to tell Holland in her next
letter. He had always been so interested in everything- pertaining to
Ranald Walton, and had envied him his military career until he himself had
an opportunity to go into the navy.
Presently Mrs. Walton
finished her lunch, and on her way out stopped at their table to shake
hands with Rob.
"I was sure that this is Joyce Ware and her sister," she
exclaimed, cordially, as Rob introduced them. "My girls are so excited
over your coming they can hardly wait to meet you. They are having a
little house-party themselves, at present, some girls from Lexington and
two young army officers, whom I want you to know. Come here, Elise, and
meet the Little Colonel's Wild West friends. Oh, we've lived in Arizona
too, you know." she added, laughing, "and I've a thousand questions to ask
you about our old home. I'm looking forward to a long, cozy toe-to-toe on
the subject, every time you come to The Beeches."
After a moment's
pleasant conversation she passed on, leaving such an impression of
friendly cordiality that Joyce said, impulsively, "She's just dear!
She makes you feel as if you'd known her always. Now toe-to-toe, for
instance. That's lots more intimate and sociable than tête-à-tête."
"That's what I
thought, too," exclaimed Mary. "And isn't it nice, when you come visiting
this way, to know everybody's history beforehand! Then just as soon as
they appear on the scene you can fit in a background behind them."
It was the first
remark Mary had made in Rob's hearing, except an occasional monosyllable
in regard
to her choice of dishes on the bill of fare, and he
turned to look at her with an amused smile, as if he had just waked up to
the fact that she was present.
"She's a homely
little thing," he thought, "but she looks as if she might grow up to be
diverting company. She couldn't be a sister of Joyce's and not be bright''
Then, in order to hear what she might say, he began to ask her questions.
She was eating ice-cream. Joyce, who had refused dessert on account of a
headache, opened her chatelaine bag to take out an envelope already
stamped and addressed.
"If you'll excuse me
while you finish your coffee," she said to Rob, "I'll scribble a line to
mamma to let her know we've arrived safely. I've dropped notes all along
the way, but this is the one she'll be waiting for most anxiously. It will
take only a minute."
"Certainly," answered
Rob, looking at his watch. "We have over twenty minutes to catch the next
trolley out to the Valley. They run every half-hour now, you know. So take
your time. It will give me a chance to talk to Mary. She hasn't told me
yet what her impressions are of this grand old Commonwealth."
If he had thought his teasing tone would bring the color
to her face, it was because he was not as familiar with her background as
she was with his. A long apprenticeship under Jack and Holland had made
her proof against ordinary banter.
"Well," she began,
calmly, mashing the edges of her ice-cream with her spoon to make it melt
faster, "so far it is just as I imagined it would be. I've always thought
of Kentucky as a place full of colored people and pretty girls and polite
men. Of course I've not been anywhere yet but just in this room, and it
certainly seems to be swarming with colored waiters. I can't see all over
the room without turning around, but the ladies at the tables in front of
me and the ones reflected in the mirrors are good-looking and stylish.
Those girls you bowed to over there are pretty enough to be Gibson girls,
just stepped out of a magazine; and so far --- you are the only man
I have met."
"Well," he said after
a moment's waiting, "you haven't given me your opinion of me."
There was a quizzical
twinkle in his eye, which Mary, intent upon her beloved ice-cream, did not
see. Her honest little face was perfectly serious as she replied, "Oh,
you, --- you're like Marse Phil and Marse Chan and those men in Thomas
Nelson
Page's Stories of 'Ole Virginia.' I love
those stories, don't you? Especially the one about 'Meh Lady.' Of course I
know that everybody in the South can't be as nice as they are, but
whenever I think of Kentucky and Virginia I think of people like that."
Such a broad
compliment was more than Rob was prepared for. An embarrassed flush
actually crept over his handsome face. Joyce, glancing up, saw it and
laughed.
"Mary is as honest as
the father of his country himself." she said. " I'll warn you now. She'll
always tell exactly what she thinks."
"Now, Joyce," began
Mary, indignantly, "you know I don't tell everything I think. I'll admit
that I did use to be a chatterbox, when I was little, but even Holland
says I'm not, now."
"I didn't mean to
call you a chatterbox," explained Joyce. "I was just warning Rob that he
must expect perfectly straightforward replies to his questions."
Joyce bent over her
letter, and in order to start Mary to talking again, Rob cast about for
another topic of conversation.
You wouldn't call
those three girls at that last table, Gibson girls, would you? " he asked.
" Look
at that dark slim one with the red cherries in her hat."
Mary glanced at her
critically. "No," she said, slowly. "She is not exactly pretty now, but
she's the ugly-duckling kind. She may turn out to be the most beautiful
swan of them all. I like that the best of any of Andersen's fairy tales.
Don't you? I used to look at myself in the glass and tell myself
that it would be that way with me. That my straight hair and pug nose
needn't make any difference; that some day I'd surprise people as the ugly
duckling did. But Jack said, no, I am not the swan hind. That no
amount of waiting will make straight hair curly and a curly nose straight.
Jack says I'll have my innings when I am an old lady --- that I'll not be
pretty till I'm old. Then he says I'll make a beautiful grandmother, like
Grandma Ware. He says her face was like a benediction. That's what he
wrote to me just before I left home. Of course I'd rather be a beauty than
a benediction, any day. But Jack says he laughs best who laughs last, and
it's something to look forward to, to know you're going to be nice-looking
in your old age when all your friends are wrinkled and faded."
Rob's laugh was so
appreciative that Mary felt with a thrill that he was finding her really
entertaining. She was sorry that Joyce's letter came to
an end just then. Her mother's last warning had been for her to remember
on all occasions that she was much younger than Joyce's friends, and they
would not expect her to take a grown-up share of their conversation. She
had promised earnestly to try to curb her active little tongue, no matter
how much she wanted to be chief spokesman, and now, remembering her
promise, she relapsed into sudden silence.
Benedict’s restaurant was in real life a very popular eatery in
turn-of-the-century Louisville. In 1906, when “The Little Colonel Maid of
Honor,” was published, it was located at 412 S. Fourth Street. The article
below, written by Gary Falk for the
Louisville Historical League’s January 2007 issue of their newsletter,
“The Archives,” provides excellent information on the restaurant and its
founder, Jennie Carter Benedict. Many thanks to Gary Falk for permitting us
to reprint the article here:
“Much has been
written about Jennie Benedict and her famous restaurant and catering
business. This famous Louisville lady was quite versatile and important to
this community.
Jennie Carter Benedict was born in Harrods Creek, KY on March
25, 1860. Her family had a wholesale business in molasses and other staples.
By the age of six she displayed an affinity for the culinary profession and
for catering parties and events. This was the genesis of a career that
lasted more than thirty-two years and spanned many cities in the Midwest,
especially Louisville and St. Louis.
She first entered business behind her home at Third and
Ormsby in 1893 in a kitchen that was built behind the residence. She sent
out 500 circulars to friends, offering to “to take orders, from a cup of
chocolate to a large reception, sandwiches on short order, cakes large or
small, trays and dainty dishes for the invalid.” The business quickly grew.
Her first store and catering enterprise opened on May 1,
1900, along with partners Salome E. Kerr and Charles Scribner at 412 South
Fourth Street. In 1911, a new “Benedict’s” restaurant opened at 554 South
Fourth Street. It was a beautiful establishment with many amenities,
including an elegant soda fountain made from the rocks of Mammoth Cave. The
interior equipment “comprised electric and gas lights, electric fans, and
all those dainty accessories that are so pleasing and gratifying to the
eye.” 65 employees were required to operate the catering and restaurant
operation, which included the creation of fine confections, candies and ice
cream.
In 1923 she was given an opportunity to move her business to
St. Louis where she had catered. As attractive as the proposal was, Jennie
was overwhelmed at the response of the citizens of Louisville to remain
here. A committee of the retail business association was formed and in an
unprecedented move, collectively presented her with a letter saying that
“Louisville can ill afford to lose a citizen like you, one who has always
been a leader in every civic and social movement and who has always stood
for the advancement of its commercial interests. The name of Jennie C.
Benedict & Co. has radiated to all parts of our country the name of
Louisville.” After careful consideration and quite overwhelmed by the
response of local citizen groups, she decided to remain in Louisville and
continue to give them the “very best that can be had.”
In 1925 Jennie sold her business for $50,000. It was
remodeled into a Spanish theme but continued to bear her name for a number
of years. She remained active in her many charities including King’s
Daughters Home, the Woman’s Club of Louisville and other organizations. For
a time, Miss Benedict acted as editor of the household department of the
Courier-Journal.
She retired to her “Dream Acre” in Indianola overlooking the
Ohio River on a bluff near Mellwood Avenue. She wrote an autobiography
entitled The Road to Dream Acre (Published by the Courier-Journal).
Jennie Benedict died on July 24, 1928. She is buried in Cave Hill Cemetery.
The Kentucky Historical Society has placed a historic marker for Jennie
Benedict at 1830 South Third Street in Louisville.
Jennie is best remembered for her classic recipe for
Benedictine sandwich spread. Surprisingly enough, it is not included in her
famous book The Blue Ribbon Cook Book published by Louisville’s
Standard Printing Company in 1904.
BENEDICTINE SANDWICH SPREAD
6 ounces cream cheese
Grated pulp of 1 medium, peeled cucumber
1 small grated onion
1 saltspoon salt, or more to taste
Mayonnaise
Dash of Tabasco
2 or 3 drops green food coloring
Mash the cheese with a fork and work in the cucumber, which
has been squeezed fairly dry in a napkin. Add onion, Tabasco and salt and
enough
mayonnaise to make a smooth spread. (Miss Jennie used
homemade mayonnaise of lemon juice, olive oil and egg yolks.) Add enough
food coloring
to give a faint green tinge. This recipe can be varied to
taste and can also be made in a blender, a kitchen gadget unknown to Miss
Jennie."
Sources
The
Louisville Courier-Journal, August 12 and 14, 1923, April 22 and October 3,
1924, July 17, 25, 26, 27 and 28, 1928, September 14, 1928, March 14, 1979;
The Louisville Times, October 30, 1922, May 20, 1925, August 10 and 14,
1923, July 25 and August 14, 1928, November 13, 1969;
The
Louisville Herald-Post, July 17, August 8, 10 and 11, 1923, January 23 and
October 24, 1925, July 26, 1928, August 5 and 26, 1928.
Benedict’s
inside photo: The Louisville Times, November 13 1969 (from R.G. Potter/U of
L Collection),
Miss
Benedict’s photo from Louisville Times, July 25, 1928.
Reference
book: Kentucky's Resources and Industries, Louisville p. 75, Railway
Publishing Co. (no year), feature on Jennie C. Benedict & Company
“High-Grade Caterers”.
The
Encyclopedia of Louisville, The University of Kentucky Press, c. 2001, John
Kleberg, editor. pp.85-86, Article on Jennie Carter Benedict written by
Laurie A. Bernstein. Kentucky
Historical Society marker database at the website www.kentucky.gov.
Recipe: Courier-Journal, March 14, 1979.